University of San Carlos

A little while back, I had the opportunity to explore Guatemala City. Usually known to tourists as the smoke filled, crime infested, less attractive city in Guatemala, the city does have some interesting and noteworthy sites, one of which is the countries only public university, San Carlos.

Before the civil war, San Carlos was the best university in Guatemala, attracting thousands of the most qualified students, regardless of their ability to pay. The professors were the top in their respected field, and the campus stood as a intellectual, left leaning institution.

However, with a series of military dictators came a rise in poverty, starvation and discrimination against indiginous people. The leaders of the university were some of the first to organize a revolt - the start of the 30 year civil war in Guatemala. Although they lacked funding and an organized military force, their intelligence and connections allowed them to mount a strong resistance to the government.



During the civil war, many of the leaders of the university were captured and killed. As such, the university lost both the support of the government and the people that made it great. At the same time, the brutal tactics of the resistance kept the country at war for 30 years - as is true in all cases, it seems that both sides are to blame for parts of a war that cost thousands of lives and has kept this country in poverty for many years.

Now, 10 years after the war ended, the university stands below many private university in quality of education and opportunities. Although recently it has started to rebound, it lacks the resources of the more well funded private universities.

However, the left leaning, anti government feelings of the university are still strong, and are demonstrated in the paintings that cover the outside of many of the buildings. Below are just a few examples:

Above is the image of a student who fought in the resistance and was killed. Roughly translated, the inscription reads "don't cry for those that died, imitate them"

A large mural covering one side of the building - from left to right - a hand with crying eye, photos of students killed, maiz - the princible crop, in the center below is the quetzal - the bird of guatemala, hand with flowers, on the right is a machete - which the people used to fight with.

The portrait is a famous woman in Guatemala. A student of San Carlos, she also won "Miss Guatemala" - she was branded an enemy to the government and killed. Below, translated "Women: in our fight, you lack a machine gun"

Portrait of Che and the woman above, two powerful figures for the resistance.